"It's All About the Scooter" and other Observations

Helmet Hair and other Non-Important Things

Call me crazy, but I'm not sure which was more exciting - visiting Bermuda OR scooting down the winding roads with a helmet on my head and aqua shoes on my feet, going a brisk 35 kph. Sometimes, I even dared to move the needle to an unprecedented 45 kph, mainly on the straight-a-way near the airport. I was a speed demon which led to 'scooter wrist'. Two rules to observe always: avoid the curb and stay near the center (for some reason I'd rather hit a car than the curb) and remember, TURN LEFT.

Renting scooters is the only way to travel in Bermuda. It will set you back about two-hundred and change for a week's rental, a small amount considering distance and costly taxi fares. If you're really prepared, bring your VOX walky-talkies! We did, and it relieved Len of the need for screaming mid-road and upsetting the golfers.
I must warn you. If you're the least bit vain, reconsider scooters. In fact, reconsider Bermuda. Yes, Bermuda is pricey and jet-setters and celebrities call it home, but if your real reason for visiting is to experience the culture, history and feel like a local, leave the vanity back home in the States.

A Little Bit British

The touches of Britain are everywhere and rightly so. From driving on the 'wrong side of the road' to stepping into a red telephone box, the British influence is still strong. A mailbox sits on Queen Street in downtown Hamilton just before the entrance to the Perot Post Office.

Time for The Swizzle (Again)

The Swizzle (South Road) and The Swizzle Inn (near St. George) provide great atmosphere, excellent Rum Swizzles (by the pitcher) and killer nachos.

The Pickled Onion

Last year, we took the kids (all FIVE on OUR honeymoon) to The Pickled Onion. I fell in love with the atmosphere when my first observation were thoughts of famous thinkers, strategically placed on the rafters and walls.  I'm a quote girl, I must admit. Why reinvent the wheel when someone can find the words to declare the perfect sentiment? I won't even try.

Combine two of my favorite things - words and champagne - and I'm hooked. Thank you, Dom. Although I've never opted for the pricey bottle, I feel sure that no matter how you pour it, there's always stars involved.

Back to The Onion. Opt for a seat on the deck. Preferably during Harbor Night - each Wednesday when the streets close to the throngs of cruising visitors and crafty vendors. And don't forget dessert - cheesecake - and you'll be set for the evening.

Bermuda Shorts

I can't help but smile each time I see a man in coat and tie and Bermuda shorts  walking in the financial district or even riding home in the scooter around dusk. 

Honeymoon Cove

You'll never find this cove unless you're in the middle of Hamilton Harbor. Located on one of the many island dots in the harbor, this cove is just roomy enough for two. 

Harbour Night in Downtown Hamilton, Every Wednesday Evening

Italians and Bermuda Sun
Don't let the Italians fool you. Yes, they tan and and yes, they even burn. Spending five hours face down in pink sand will yield a burn that will eventually lead to peeling. Gross and inevitable.

A Diver's Paradise

I love how my husband loves to dive. Me, well, not so much. However, this time, I tagged along during what would be the worst weather of our trip. I rocked the boat with captain Guy from Fantasea. He got the ten divers ready, shoved them off the boat, and then lent a hand to scoop them up. A 9:30 a.m. two-tank dive leaving from the Dockyard: the first was to a sunken ferry, downed five years earlier with paint still visible and glass removed so divers can shimmy through the structure; secondly, to the Blue Hole, a circular hole in the reef a short distance from the wreck of the Sea Venture. Divers can swim through the tunnel with the parrot fish and groupers.

Landmarks of Bermuda

Verdmont Museum

This circa 1710 home is now part of the Bermuda National Trust. Currently, the home is only open Wednesday through Friday. Admission is $5. Located on Sayle Road, this Georgian-style treasure sits quietly and is untouched by modern conveniences of electricity and or other technological advances. A parking area for scooters is to the right of the front entrance. Most likely, the only sign of life will be the butterflies floating through the gardens. Check the schedule; don't be disappointed like us and find it closed.

Crystal Caves

This remarkable natural beauty is a must see for visitors. Formed over 30 million years ago, the crystal stalactites and stalagmites are located 120 feet underground. For an admission price of $20, you'll spend about 30 minutes on a tour to learn the basics. Quite beautiful but for the price, questionable. Fantasy Caves is a tougher excursion and an extra cost. Make sure you can handle the steps.

Even Crystal Caves is not exempt from a wishing well.

The tour guide said that he would meet us back in about 200 years and by then, these two will be touching.

The Unfinished Church
St. George

One of the most amazing sites was the Unfinished Church, located to the north of St. George on the way to Tobacco Bay (Head of Duke of Kent Street). Like Verdmont, it is a part of the Bermuda Historic Trust. Construction started in 1874, but was halted because of disagreements among the Anglican community and a debilitating storm caused costly damage. Unsure of the future of the structure, construction was halted immediately.

Visitors are welcome to roam the outside of the structure, but the inside is closed due to crumbling stones. If beginnings amaze, the Unfinished Church is a must. It must be on your Bermuda Bucket List.

Fort St. Catherine
Eastern Most Point of Bermuda

This is  the first site you will see if you travel to Bermuda via cruise ship. We sat at Blackbeard's Pub (good food and they will fill your water bottle at the bar) and watched a Carnival Ship cruise toward the Dockyard. The current 19th century structure replaced an original 1609 structure built by the first settlers to defend the island from the Spaniards. A nice secluded beach.A nice ride on the scooter.

St. David's Lighthouse
St. David, St. George's Parish

Part of St. George's parish, St. David's sits on the highest point of the island. You might remember it from the movie, The Deep. It's told that the locals lured ships onto the reefs, causing ships to wreck and then the thieves would rack up on loot. The lighthouse was built to stop this practice. Today, it signals the end to many yacht races whose final destination is Bermuda.

It's a long winding road past the airport to this somewhat residential area.

Royal Naval Dockyard

For the classic tourist, it's the Dockyard. The Commissioner's House, Frog and Onion Pub (very historic and authentic, brews its own beer, but too pricey and not worth it), The Clocktower (filled with shops and restaurants), and the docking site for cruise ships. There are 'cruisers' everywhere on the days the ships are in town, so if you're interested in taking your time and not having to wait, plan accordingly. Most dive trips leave from the dockyard. Segway tours are available, too.

Lean forward and you go. Lean backyard and you stop - that is, unless your feet are positioned too close to the end and in that case, you just head toward a wall. Lovely tour guide Jordan saved the day, grabbed my handles and steered me to safety...however, my heart (and hers) did skip a few beats. Cost is $75 per person for a Segway experience. Pricey, but fun, but where else are you going to get to ride those rolling beasts.

Perot Post Office
Queen Street, Downtown Hamilton

For those who still believe in the art of writing, this little piece of history will still place a Bermudian stamp on your letters and cards. The first stamp was issued in 1812 by postmaster William Bennet Perot. 

White Horse Tavern
King Square, St. George

Right on the square, White Horse is one of the oldest pubs on the island. Sit on the water. The signature club was perfect, and they have every beer on the planet.  You'll even have the pleasure of tossing a few fries to the birds. 

The Majesty of Bermuda

Along South Road, a traveler's first stop just beyond The Swizzle (a must stop for later for a pitcher of Rum Swizzles) is Astwood Cove with majestic rocks perched above a rugged shoreline. This photographer's dream is perfect for a first stop on the island. A great preview to sites that will literally take your breath away.

Further down South Road is Horseshoe Bay, one of the most notable places on the island.  The natural sculptures frame the playground for the locals and visitors. Just before sunset, the orange glow nestles among the rocks making the sight even more unbelievable and inviting.

Our view of Hamilton Harbor from the top of Scarrington Hill located down Middle Road. The sailboats dot the waters and it's hard to believe that this is as fast life gets in the harbor!

 Astwood Cove and Park

 The rocks make the shoreline hard to access, but don't dismiss this cove and the power of nature.

Horses along Warwick Long Bay. Our only companions during our afternoon at Warwick. Although most sun worshipers and tourists flock to Horseshoe Bay for the afternoon, this setting is not to be missed. Start at Warwick, stroll the beach to Jobson Cove and enjoy the solitude.

Warwick Cove. There are many nooks to hideaway along this stretch of beach and just enough beach for the walkers. I'm not sure which is more delightful and fascinating - the view (wow!) or the pink sand between my toes. Coral, chipped away by the parrot fish, lands on the beach, making this pink wonderland a dream to a girl from the South.

 Horseshoe Bay

There's always a crowd. Our first evening on the island we visited Horseshoe and a bunch of high school kids were in a cove, burning their past year's school work. A celebration that school was almost done and summer was around the corner.

Sailing into the Sunset. Our last evening on the island, we sailed from Hamilton Harbour towards the Sound. The island is beautiful, but I must say, looking at everything from the sea's point of view, outstanding. Very different and something each tourist must do. On this evening, the sunset was rather remarkable, and it was proven when the boat's captain (an island native) took out his camera and started snapping shots. Book through Fantasea, the Catamaran Evening Sunset Sail. I will do this on every visit.

Bermuda Escape

It's June and I'm heading to Bermuda, one of the most gorgeous places on this earth. I first fell in love with the islands exactly one year ago about the same time I made official my love for my husband, Len. When he decided to take me there on our honeymoon, he knew I would fall in love with the entire package just as he had some twenty years ago. His love for diving drew him there; his love for me drew him back.